Antique Lace, Pleats and Feather Stitches

This is my grandson Zachary's christening gown.

Forget the he's nearly six feet tall now, his voice is changing and his life's ambition at this point is to be a champion skate boarder, I still see that round, newly-minted baby face and the chubby waving arms and legs.

He was nearly too big for the gown.

The gown is all made by hand. It's made of Swiss batiste. It goes without saying that the batiste you use must be the best you can find. Why waste your time and effort on materials that are inferior?

I didn't have a pattern. But I had made a lot of wearable art garments based on ancient clothing patterns and began the gown with the yolk and neck and back piece. I started with the front placket. The collar arrangement, number of pin-tucks, insertions of lace and the kind of embroidery to use were the first decisions to make.

I have a large stash of antique lace that I was just itching to use. Some I had collected in England and some I found a whole shoebox full at a garage sale in Portland OR years ago. The large, wide band overlay at the bottom of the gown was bought from a fabric suppler and is modern. (Of course, the best, softest must be put on the neckband.) The gown opens in the back with a simple placket and button closure.

On this gown, the front and back the same. There is no shoulder seam. The embroidery, inserts, and tucks all continue over the shoulder to the back placket. I pulled the threads for all the pin-tucks, pinned them down securely, decided on the lace inserts and entredeux.

All the embroidery is done in white thread using the feather stitch.

The same pattern is repeated down the body of the dress and at the sleeves. I used ribbon insertion lace at the sleeves and on the front and back yolks so I could insert trailing ribbons. The only break in the design is the use of a very wide and intricate band of white lace overlay at the bottom of the dress.

This conceals an area on the inside where the name of the baby and the date of the christening can be embroidered in white thread. I hope the dress will be used by many babies and their names will be added to the list.

Maybe his first child will the the next name.